Kosher Commitment: HERZOG WINE CELLARS

By Lisa Snider, findingojai@aol.com

The southernmost point of the Central Coast wine region may be further south than you thought. Would you believe, Oxnard? The seaside Ventura County city is home to Herzog Wine Cellars, the largest producer of kosher wine in the world. With a focus on both Special Reserve and small-lot artisan wines, this 77,000 square foot state-of-the-art facility opened just two years ago and is a testament to the seamless merger of Old World traditions and New World techniques in winemaking.

The Herzog family has been making wine since the 19th century. Back then, Philip Herzog made wine in Slovakia for the Austro-Hungarian court, earning him the title of Baron. Today, Philip’s modern-day descendants continue the tradition with native California winemaker Joe Hurliman
overseeing the process. Prior to joining Herzog in 1998, Hurliman apprenticed at Alban Vineyards in the Edna Valley as Assistant Winemaker. His love of Central Coast grapes has proven influential during his tenure with Herzog and has yielded superb wines that win over wine drinkers at large, and certainly not just those seeking kosher wine.

What makes wine kosher?

Hurliman oversees and orchestrates the winemaking process. When asked what makes the wine kosher, he responds, “It’s very simple,” he says. “It’s who makes it: Sabbath-observant Jewish individuals who follow kosher laws.” Where grapes are sourced and who picks them doesn’t matter. The rules takes effect from the point juice from grapes goes into the crusher or the press inside the winery; from that point onward, kosher laws must be observed. “We have to have a very well-trained cellar crew,” says Hurliman. “That’s really an advantage.”

This does mean that Hurliman, who is not Jewish, cannot himself be literally hands-on during the winemaking process. But that doesn’t preclude his obvious influence on the finished product. His role is more like that of a film director, constantly sampling a wine during the stages of its maturity and dictating what procedures to adopt to shepard it along from juice to wine.

“We source the best grapes for the wine we’re making,” and, he adds, there is no difference between the quality of their fine wine and that of non-kosher fine wine. “The added bonus is that it is kosher.”

Using sustainable growers

Although growing and transporting grapes do not require adherence to kosher laws, this is a process the company is getting more involved in through the observance of sustainable practices.

Herzog is making long-term contractual agreements with select growers to ensure sustainability, good neighbor practices (i.e. putting mitigations
in place for dust and noise) and how they deal with pests (i.e. using falcons for rodent control).

Herzog partnered with the Watts family in Lodi, one of the first to be certified sustainable by Protected Harvest. Having been at the forefront
of sustainability, the Watts family self-certifies through the completion of an audit and monitoring. With three other Herzog wines already incorporating the family’s old vine Zinfandel, Herzog decided to bottle a product exclusively using these grapes. The result is Herzog Zin Gris, a dry
rosé, available this summer, which will only yield about 200 cases, all bottles carrying a sustainability pledge right on the label.

Designed to consume with food, Hurliman suggests enjoying this must-have summer wine “while sitting on the patio with lunch.”

Hurliman’s the man

It was a trip to Napa in 1982 with his wife that first got Hurliman interested in wine. “Prior to that, I didn’t drink wine.” While in Napa, they took a tour of the Robert Mondavi facility. Soon after that, he worked as a volunteer at Old Creek Ranch Winery in Ojai. From there, he moved up the Central Coast and worked for Alban in the Edna Valley.

Today, he enjoys the latitude and flexibility Herzog gives him to create. “As a winemaker, it’s wonderful to work for a family who really wants to make great wine.”

“They’re so great, they have me sign the back of the bottle.”

Tasting notes

The elegant tasting room at the Herzog facility in Oxnard is chic and inviting. High ceilings, a granite-topped tasting bar, stained concrete floors and an impressive 20-foot wine rack wall behind the bar that beautifully showcases their collection.

The room is flanked by their 40-seat restaurant, Tierra Sur, featuring an inspired wine country menu. The tasting room remains open as long as there are diners in the restaurant.

With a clientele that is 50% kosher wine drinkers, Hurliman notes that the tasting room was not built with just the Jewish community in mind. They want to be part of the local community and attract all wine lovers.

With praise from Wine Enthusiast, The Robb Report and the Beverage Tasting Institute, wine lovers are taking notice. While swirling a glass, Hurliman shares with me what he looks for in a perfect wine. “All the different aspects: the aroma, the flavors, the finish, the way it feels in your mouth. I’m looking for wines that are seamless; all the different parts meld together perfectly.”

Hurliman’s Top Picks:

• Herzog Special Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Chardonnay
Citrus and oak balance nicely in this 90% French oak barrel-fermented chardonnay which pairs nicely with food.

• Herzog Wine Cellars Special Edition Cabernet Sauvignon, Warnecke Vineyard, Chalk Hill
“This is just a wonderful vintage for us - rich concentrated lush fruit and very smooth, lingering tannins.”
They only make about 500 cases per year, so get it while you can!

• “I absolutely adore our Herzog Special Reserve Edna Valley Syrah. That’s my baby!”
When Hurliman first came to Herzog, syrah is the wine the family wanted him to make. Aged in French oak, it displays notes of white pepper and
Chinese five-spice and is well-suited for barbecued and grilled meats.

Lisa Snider is an Ojai resident and local freelance writer. Her other columns
are featured on her website, www.findingojai.com.